New Frontiers for Recruiting Customers "The up-and-coming thing, the trade press reports, will be a drive to put THREE cars in every garage."—Consumer's Report.
By 1957 American merchandising persuaders were embarking on several bold and portentous attempts to create new, broader, or more insatiable demands for their products. One ambitious and significant effort to tamper with our living pattern was the multimillion-dollar campaign by the men's clothing industry to make men pay more attention to stylishness in their clothing. It seems that men were much too easily satisfied when it came to clothing. They wore suits for years upon years. Men's clothing sales stood still while other lines of enterprise were forging ahead. Several years ago the executive director of the National Fashion Previews of Men's Apparel, Inc., diagnosed the trouble: "The business suffers from a lack of obsolescence." And the president of the American Institute of Men's and Boy's Wear as late as 1955 pinpointed the cause of the trouble: the consumer had "a lackadaisical if not downright negative attitude about his wardrobe." Why, some exclaimed, should the woman of the family spend 60 per cent more for clothes than the breadwinner, who should be trying to make a good appearance in the world? Even when it came to footwear American males were old shoe. By 1953 per capita ownership of men's shoes fell to a low of 1.9 pair compared with 2 plus pairs in 1942. A part of the decline was blamed on the fact that many men began wearing Army surplus shoes for leisure. An official of the National Shoe Manufacturers' Association declared that "U.S. men are simply not buying enough shoes." Psychologists who poked into the problem concluded that men were held back by a fear of seeming conspicuous in their dress. But the depth merchandisers reasoned that this attitude could be overwhelmed by the increasing desire of Americans to make a good impression on their peer group, as a part of the trend to otherdirectedness. (As perceived by David Riesman, the University of Chicago social scientist, other-directed people are those who— unlike the old-style inner-directed people, who are governed by goals implanted early in life by their elders—are largely guided in their behavior by the expectancy of the crowd with which they associate.) It was clear that the men of America needed to be made style conscious. Pierre Martineau pointed out that while most businesses were doubling sales and profits in the 1945-55 decade the male apparel industry had stood still because "the American male has never been completely sold on the concept of style in clothing." He felt that the male should be made conscious that "something exciting is going on." And something exciting was going on. The American Institute of Men's and Boy's Wear was raising from members a $2,000,000 war chest to drive home to males the slogan: "Dress Well—You Can't Afford Not to," the first such large-scale persuasion effort it had attempted in history. The aim, as Tide phrased it, was to "force the average man out of a drab routine of stereotyped garb into a seasonal, volatile, style-conscious class." One of the big hat makers, Frank H. Lee Company, set out to make the phrase "as old as last year's hat" apply to men's hats as well as women's. It devised this message for males: "Every hat you own just went out of style." Cooperative media began heralding the change. The fashion editors of newspapers began in 1956 announcing that gabardine, knickers, and loud sports shirts were enjoying a revival and that men were mad about India madras. Meanwhile, depth merchandisers were making the discovery that the male has an "other self" or "inner self" that cries out for expression through loud attire. The president of one sportswear firm rejoiced that the United States male is no longer "a frustrated animal, afraid of color and of looking different." The Manhattan Company began showing a man and girl holding hands, both attired in riotously colorful shirts, against a backdrop of colored Japanese lanterns. The big lever the persuaders discovered for forcing males into a "seasonal, volatile, style-conscious class" was woman. Pierre Martineau was one of the first to point out that "mothers, wives, girl friends, and secretaries can do a tremendous job of exerting pressure on a man to make him dress right." By 1956 the Institute for Motivational Research had devoted a major depth study to the best ways to use the woman leverage on men. (Already women were reported buying almost half of men's suits and two thirds of their shirts! The institute called this an unprecedented trend that was resulting in a number of changes in our society.) This trend, it felt, was not merely the result of persuasion efforts; but persuasion could give women the permission they needed to take over so that they could "mold and perfect" their husbands' public image. It explained: "When a wife is dissatisfied with the husband's image as it is reflected in his manner of dressing, she will seize every opportunity to do his shopping and change the image according to her own ideas." The institute added that the strong influence of Momism on the current generation of males caused many males actually to want the women to take over and take care of their clothing problems just as their moms had done. The institute admonished merchandisers to bear in mind that in addressing their men's wear messages to women they should stress different features than they might in talking to men. Women, it said, are impressed by the shade of fabric, buttons, lapel shape, feel and "ensemble" effect, and "style." It urged the men's wear merchandisers, in appealing to women, to remind them that buying clothes for their husbands had become their natural function and that this was an "accepted, happy trend." She should be reassured that even when she enters a man's store the salesman is delighted to work with her on the husband's problem because he recognizes she is an expert on clothing. Finally it admonished, "Stress changing styles and fashion features. . . ." Soon, men's wear merchandisers across the landscape were feminizing their messages. One men's hat manufacturer began advertising in Vogue, the women's fashion magazine! And Lee Company, in one of its new strategies, showed four women dressed for four different occasions. Each woman was holding out the male hat best suited for the occasion for which she was dressed. This company even hired a woman consultant and sent her on a nationwide tour of men's wear stores. And a fabric firm began crying to women: "Does your husband look as smart as he is?" Dr. Dichter reported that even the workmen in the factories were starting to become more conscious of their garb and becoming far fussier about how they looked now that women were coming into the plants. How it was all ending (for the male) was vividly indicated by the syndicated financial columnist Sylvia Porter, who reported excitedly: "Styles of men's clothing already have become much more spectacular than in many years and they'll become more so. Ruffles and tucks are coming back—for men. The Civil War 'dandy' is in for a modern-day revival. . . . As a woman. . . I admit I'm fascinated by the picture of a more colorful male. Just to see them in their flounces and their ruffles, their peaches and their pinks may be worth the sacrifice of a few pennies of each clothing dollar." Tide likewise reported happily on the boom in men's fashions and related that the typical man's closet—"once containing a blue serge, a black alpaca, a pair or two of shoes, one felt and straw hat, and a few odds and ends—today is bursting at the joints with Dacron, Orion, nylon, blends, sports jackets, slacks, and colorful shorts, collections of hats for every occasion, and other varied paraphernalia." It added that what the average man of 1960 will look like "is anybody's guess." Another old-fashioned curmudgeon who came into the persuaders' sights for reform was the farmer, who, as Dr. Dichter conceded, was long the counterpart of the puritan. Dr. Dichter found from depth studies that the new mood was infecting even these holdouts of austerity and that, for example, farmers responded favorably to colored splashes on farm machinery (if the color could be rationalized as useful in identifying parts) and the farmers could be persuaded without too much trouble to buy tape-recorded music for the henhouse. Auto makers became alert to the growing mellowness of the farmer and began dressing up, styling (and of course pricing up) the farmer's pickup truck, which originally began as a lowly mechanized work horse. By 1956 farmers in large numbers were being sold pickup trucks with whitewall tires, quilted plastic upholstery, half-foot foam rubber cushioning, heavy chrome trim, and such nonpuritan colors as flame red, goldenrod yellow, and meadowmist green, with some two-toning. The drive to create psychological obsolescence by the doublebarreled strategy of (1) making the public style-conscious, and then (2) switching styles, began extending in 1956 to all sorts of home appliances. The marketers were driven to it by an ugly economic fact: the overwhelming majority of American families already had refrigerators, ranges, and washers. In order to be persuaded to buy replacements, rather than to wait for the old ones to collapse in exhaustion, some powerful influences would have to be brought to bear on the consumer. The marketers found answers by looking to the advanced thinkers of the auto industry. In 1956 one of the largest makers of refrigerators was shaping a favorable trade-in formula so that housewives would be encouraged to seek the "last word" in refrigerators. An executive said the company was committed to a program of "planned product obsolescence," presumably by creating new styles and features each year that would make appliance owners dissatisfied with the models they had. Financial columnist Sylvia Porter in commenting enthusiastically on this drive to pump vitality into the appliance industry told Mrs. America: "You'll watch for style changes in next year's appliances, tend to consider your model 'obsolete' after two or three years even though it works well—just as your husband watches year-to-year style changes in cars, tends to consider the family model outdated after two or three years even though it runs beautifully." A color stylist in talking with gas-range people showed them not only the "current best sellers" but also the colors "being groomed for future leadership." The persuaders of merchandising found that while there are various ways to create a new-styled product that will outmode existing models, use of color is one of the cheapest ways it can be done. Auto makers went berserk with color in 1955, then stressed muted colors in 1956. Typewriters and telephones came out in a wide range of colors in 1956, presumably to make owners dissatisfied with their plain old black models. The phone people were using color as room-brighteners to get people to order more extensions and thus have "properly telephoned homes." A merchandiser of the New York Telephone Company explained the explosion of colors by saying the colored phones "eliminate the tension and the ceaseless subconscious searching for a telephone." Then he was reported adding: "In modern merchandising, having several telephones is called impulse phoning. If a phone is handy, you make a call and why not a pleasant color to blend with the room scheme? Make your life brighter." Motorboat makers, too, were turning to color in a way that left some old hands dismayed. The head of a marine paint company attributed the rampage of color in boats to the feminine influence. Once the women got on the boats they started brightening them up. Even the ship-to-shore phones had to be designed to harmonize with the furnishings. In seeking new ways to broaden sales, depth merchandisers even began changing the seasons around. Depth-prober James Vicary made a "psycho-seasonal" study and found that marketers could safely start selling spring finery to women in the middle of January, because that, he said, was when "psychological spring" begins. Psychological spring, he found, runs from January 13 to June 6—almost five months. Psychological winter, on the other hand, begins November 17 (a month before calendar winter begins) and lasts less than two months. The sunglass marketers too found they could push the seasons around. Traditionally the sunglass makers, in building up a $30,000,000 business, confined themselves to the hot sunshine months from Decoration Day to Labor Day. This narrow season became intolerable to Foster Grant, the biggest sunglass firm, and so it conducted a pilot study in Boston, Detroit, and Youngstown, Ohio, and was pleasantly surprised to learn that with proper persuasion techniques it could sell sunglasses in the dead of winter. (This same firm sold a million Davy Crockett glasses in about a week, even though it is most unlikely that the real Davy Crockett ever wore or saw sunglasses. ) The persuaders, by 1957, were also learning to improve their skill in conditioning the public to go on unrestrained buying splurges when such images as Mother and Father were held up. Mother was still the better image in relation to sales. Mother's Day was grossing $100,000,000 in sales, while Father's Day was grossing only $68,000,000. A great deal of thought, however, was going into Father's Day exploitation to correct this poorer showing. The National Father's Day Committee proclaimed that Father's Day in 1956 would be noncommercial. The 1956 Father's Day, it said, would have a patriotic motif, "Liberty Stems from the Home." When columnist Inez Robb received an announcement of this act of patriotism she commented, "Who was it opined that patriotism is the last refuge of the scoundrel?" An illustration of the noncommercial and patriotic nature of Father's Day as observed at mid-century could be seen in the gigantic $100,000 campaign set off across the nation in 1955 by a hobby-kit maker to give Dad a $4.95 hobby kit. ("Give Dad a Hobby on Father's Day.") NBC stars plugged it (because there was a publicity value in it for an NBC show, Victory at Sea). The kit was displayed in Macy's window, and the kit maker had publicity men "at strategic spots across the country" to build Dads up to a drool by Father's Day. That was the noncommercial aspect. The patriotic motif could be clearly seen in the fact that the hobby kit contained plastic toy battleships. Thus the tie-in with the Victory at Sea show. The United States Navy reportedly was persuaded to co-operate by providing photos, posters, etc., for background material for window displays of the kit; and the Navy League likewise was reported joining in the cooperation. And it was all to honor Father. The most important of all new areas to beckon the persuaders of merchandising was relaxation. Here was a field that if properly exploited could yield not millions but tens of billions. As Tide pointed out, "It's amazing how much money you can spend relaxing." What made the picture so exciting to merchandisers was that because of automation and other factors people were working fewer and fewer hours a week. According to one consultant of the New York ad agency, Batten, Barton, Durstine and Osborn, the average worker was away from his bench or office 125 days a year and was enjoying a higher income while doing it. By 1960 people would be averaging 37-hour weeks, and by 1980 nearer 30. This growing amount of free time of people, marketers agreed, was a phenomenon of paramount importance. Pushing into this one frontier, as Tide pointed out, could "solve a lot of problems." A Yale professor was quoted as saying this leisure could solve the "greatest peril" in our economy, the danger of production outrunning consumption. Another business journal said the leisure market could become the dynamic component of the whole American economy. And Tide devoted a four-part series to an erudite discussion of the situation— and the best ways to exploit it. Marketers quickly noted that there was one peculiarly American trait that was a happy one from their viewpoint: the average American hates to be idle. The idea of simply relaxing by absence of preoccupation is intolerable. Europeans noted that American sight-seers couldn't merely amble about soaking up the beauty; they had to be following some sort of schedule they could boast about when they got home. This loathing of nonpreoccupation suggested possibilities for luring "relaxing" Americans by the millions into such money-burning activities as do-it-yourself, building hi-fi sets, building hobbies that involved buying more and more merchandisable goods. Although sociologist David Riesman was appalled by the way leisure activities were being standardized, the merchandisers quoted him extensively on the play habits of other-directed people. Tide quoted him as saying that leisurely living was accentuating the drive to conformity and other-directedness. He was reported observing: "Such [other-directed] people learn early to accept their directions in the game of leisure and life from their peers—that is, their age mates, job mates and playmates—to whom they respond with radar sensitivity." Dr. Dichter got himself into the leisure picture by warning marketers of the puritan hangover in our make-up, which, we have observed, is one of his favorite themes (and one also put forward by David Riesman and by the editor of Holiday). Dr. Dichter warned: "A product can never be sold purely for pleasure. You must convey the idea that the consumer will get a sense of fulfillment if he purchases your product." Marketers began hammering many of their joys-of-relaxing messages to teen-agers and college students. One reason for this, as Tide explained, was to show "them early that leisure time should be enjoyed, a belief not yet universal, thanks to a puritan past." Pierre Martineau noted with satisfaction that Midwesterners were finally starting to shed their Sunday best clothes after Sunday dinner and getting into play togs for golf or boating. The merchandiser-persuaders shrewdly encouraged the trend away from spectator sports to participation sports, such as badminton or skin diving, since the market potential was greater in participation sports and also offered more "fulfillment." They also encouraged the trend to get the whole family in on leisure activities, such as fishing, which Father had once considered his private refuge from the world. It is better to sell five fish poles per household than one. Dr. Dichter did a study on fishing and found some changes would have to be made in the product. Women want pretty fishing rods, rods that look nice. Also, in his study of the booming $850,000,000-a-year boating market he found that one of the appeals of a boat to Americans is that the aspiration to own a playboat is "associated with pleasant memories of one's first childhood experiences via a toy sailboat. . . ." Backyard swimming pools, too, were enjoying a lively market, thanks to the enterprise of imaginative persuaders. The International Swimming Pool Corporation began offering an Esther Williams Swim Pool Pak for $1,295 (a vinyl-plastic pool skin to cut costs). Installation cost $700 more. The big magic in selling the pool was heavy use of the image and name of Esther Williams, the Hollywood swim star, in all promotion. The firm ran an ad in the staid Wall Street Journal featuring her asking: "Are you my leading man? No construction experience is necessary." One expert cited by Tide was convinced the trend would be to renting playthings rather than buying them. He foresaw that in the future people would go to motels featuring their preferred kind of play: golf, gardening, power boating, power tooling, with the playthings being included as a part of the over-all charge. Meanwhile, the president of Cincinnati's large department store, John Shillito Company, noticed one of the most exciting trends of all, from the merchandiser's standpoint. He observed: "For many people, shopping seems to be a form of leisure in itself." Now we turn from merchandising to other and even more challenging fields where persuaders employing the depth approach are starting to take hold. We will explore what the persuaders are trying to do in politics, in the treatment of company personnel, in fund raising, in public relations, and in the creation of a "climate" of optimism in the United States. All offer inviting opportunities for extending the techniques of depth manipulation. In these fields, psycho-persuasion is in even more of an experimental, toddling state than in merchandising. But the potentialities from the public's viewpoint are more momentous, for here the goal is mind molding itself. No longer is the aim just to play on our subconscious to persuade us to buy a refrigerator or new motorboat that we may or may not need. The aim now is nothing less than to influence the state of our mind and to channel our behavior as citizens